Hale transfer case vented?

[Cutlass84]

I am working on a Hale transfer case attached to their Qflo pump. Both input and output seals are leaking, and I noticed when I pulled the fill plug it sounded as if air escaped.

Do these transfer cases have a vent like a differential or transmission? Just checking for the sake of doing a job right once.

[Simsbury Fire Mech]

Follow the gearcase to the top and there should be a jiggle-valve there. Maybe someone put a pipe plug in it's place.

[Fred Rhodes]

Check for the breather being blocked or removed and plugged.

Check the link below, PDF page 6 or page #4.

http://www.haleproducts.com/_Downloa...%20Rev%20A.pdf

[david2761]

check the vps for leaks. i had one where the shaft was scored and allowing air to escape into the t-case. just pull the fill plug and shift it a few times and listen in the t-case for leaks.

[TFEEVT]

Originally Posted by david2761

check the vps for leaks. i had one where the shaft was scored and allowing air to escape into the t-case. just pull the fill plug and shift it a few times and listen in the t-case for leaks.

I had one doing the same thing!

[Rapidfireservices]

Cutlass, I believe your VPS air pump shift unit could use a Hale VPS repair kit part # 546-0370-53-0 containing new seals. Be sure to change the seal between the aluminum shift unit housing and the pump transmission. If the pump shift shaft is scored,Hale part # 037-1341-50-0 "gearshift shaft replacement kit" contains everything in first kit above and also has a 2 piece gearshift shaft and shift piston. I have them both kits in stock if you need. Feel free to call me if you ever have any questions about big red trucks. Kevin 888.588.6976

[fireman19]

Originally Posted by Rapidfireservices

Cutlass, I believe your VPS air pump shift unit could use a Hale VPS repair kit part # 546-0370-53-0 containing new seals. Be sure to change the seal between the aluminum shift unit housing and the pump transmission. If the pump shift shaft is scored,Hale part # 037-1341-50-0 "gearshift shaft replacement kit" contains everything in first kit above and also has a 2 piece gearshift shaft and shift piston. I have them both kits in stock if you need. Feel free to call me if you ever have any questions about big red trucks. Kevin 888.588.6976

Kevin i have a 1976 truck that needs the same kit replaced how do i go about replaceing the seals? It seems that the driveshaft is in the way to get the cover off to expose the seals. Do i also need to drain the oil first?

[COO]

Originally Posted by fireman19

Kevin i have a 1976 truck that needs the same kit replaced how do i go about replaceing the seals? It seems that the driveshaft is in the way to get the cover off to expose the seals. Do i also need to drain the oil first?

If the driveshaft isn't in the way, then you've got problems.

Not to be arrogant, but I'm going to grab a bucket of popcorn and watch the show.

COO

[fireman19]

yes its in the way just looking for a way around takeing it all apart if i don't have to. anyway i love popcorn come over and share

[Tom Gaines]

Fireman 19:

I have installed Hale pump shift seal kits many times without completely removing the drive-line. But Be Very Careful! You do not want that drive shaft to fall on you. You will also need longer housing bolts for added support. Read on and see how and why. Also you might want to put a jack-stand under the drive shaft for extra safety.

First, place the pump shift control in neutral to drain compressed air from the shift cylinder. The Flange that is in your way is the input shaft to the Hale Pump. It must be moved out “a little” for the Shift Cylinder Cover to clear the pump shift-shaft. Place a drain pan under the pump transmission and remove the four front housing bolts. The lower bolts will allow some gear lubricant to drain out. This is where you can use two longer bolts to support the drive-line and shaft while you pry the input shaft out of the pump transmission. I seem to remember about ½” to ¾” is enough to get the cover off the shift shaft. With the cover removed manually shift the pump into pump gear which will move the piston toward the outside of the cylinder allowing access to the snap-ring that retains the piston to the shaft. Remove the snap-ring and discard, there should be new ones supplied in the repair kit. Sometimes I use channel-lock pliers to grab the piston hub and remove it. You can also use a “little puff” of compressed air to blow the piston out of the cylinder. Use a shop towel in your hand to catch the piston so it does not fly off the shaft to who knows where. Behind the piston is another snap-ring to be removed then two cylinder mounting bolts which secure the cylinder to the transmission. The seal that is leaking air into the pump transmission is located in the rear of the shift cylinder housing. As I recall it should be a quad-ring. Be careful when replacing the quad-rings sometimes they become twisted and will not seal properly. Also be careful when installing the snap-rings because they are “directional” and can be incorrectly installed. There is a “square edge” to the snap-ring and it must be installed away from the pressure being exerted on it. If it is installed backwards when pressure is place on it the “round side” it will jump out of the shaft grove allowing the piston to move without moving the shift shaft. Also do not “over open” the snap-ring with your pliers it may be stressed and not hold tightly to the shaft. After installing the snap-ring check to see if it is held tightly to the shaft. I think you can make it the rest of the way from here. Let us know how you do.

Tom Gaines.